Mechanism for sewing linings or sweat-bands into hat-bodies



2 Sheets-Sheet 1.

(No Model.)

J. A. LOCKE.

MECHANISM FOR SEWING LININGS 0R SWEAT BANDS INTO HAT BODIES;

Patented Feb. 17, 1885.

ihvento r (Tease fliert Zoo/33a.

N, PETERi f'llolo-Lvlhogmphur. wnsmnmnn. D. c.

2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(No Model.)

J A. LQCEKB;

MECHANISM FOR SEWING L-ININGS 0R, Si-WE' AT BANDS INTO HAT BODIES.

aitvesnted Feb. 17, 18.85.

n, PETERS. Piloloulhogmphm. Washing-Ion. n. c

' iln'rren Srares JESSE ALBERT LOCKE, OF

ATENT rrica.

MILFORD, MASSACHUSETTS.

MECHANISM FOR SEWING LININGS 0R SWEAT-BANDS INTO HAT-BODIES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 312,280, dated February 17, 1885.

Application filed June 17, 1884. (N0 model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, J ESSE ALBERT LOCKE, of Milford, in the county of \Vorcester, of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, have in vented a new and useful Improvement in Mechanism for Sewing Linings orSweat-Bands into Hat Bodies; and I do hereby declare the same to be described in the following specification and represented in the accompanying drawings, of which- Figure l is a side elevation, and Fig. 2 an end view, of a machine provided with my invention, the nature of which is defined in the claims hereinafter presented. Fig. 3 is a 1011- gitudinal section taken through the front half of the drivingshaft, and showing the adjustable looper and its spindle and the eccentric for operating the feeder. Fig. 4. is a side View, and Fig. 5 a rear elevation, of the looper, its spindle, and the feeder. Fig. 6 is alongitudinal section taken through the lining or sweat-band guides and their supporter or arched bed-plate. Fig. 7 is a top view, and Fig. 8 a transverse section, of a portion of the sweat-band. Fig. 9 is a section of a portion of a hat and aview of the sweat-band, its

guides, and the arched bed-plate, such view exhibiting their arrangement While the sweatband is being sewed to the hat.

The lining or sweat-band (shown at A) is composed of a stiff cord or a round strip, a, of rattan or whalebone, a binding-strip of glazed cloth or leather, 1), folded along its middle and about the strip a, and a broad strip of leather, a, laid on the folded binding-strip and connected thereto by sewing, (I, going through both and alongside of the strip, a, of rattan. In arranging the said sweat-band and the hat in the sewing-machine, or, in other words, on its arched bed-plate, (shown at 13,) they (the said band and hat) are to be disposed in manner as represented in Fig. 9, in which the hat is shown at H as having the bed-plate B extending within its body 0 a short distance, such body hanging upon the said plate, with the hat-rim f projecting upward'in rear of the presser P of the sewingmachine. The sweat-band, having its outer side, 9, uppermost, rests upon the bed-plate, with the binding 1) projecting within the hatbody at the junction of such body with the rim, the binding. going under and against the lip of a guide, G, fixed upon the arched bed. The part c of the lining extends underneath the longer arm of a guidelever, I, fulcruined to a movable plate, K, that is fastened on the bed-plate by a clamp-screw, Z. A cammedlever, m, pivoted to the rear arm ofthe lever I, serves, when turned against the plate K, to force the superior arm of the lever down upon the part c of the sweat-band, such superior arm reaching to the binding and serving as an additional guide for the sweat-band. The hat extends over the top of the feeder F of the sewing-machine, such feeder, when in operation, working through a slot, m, in the arched bed-plate. Thesaidsewing-machine,asshown at M, is of the class that forms what is termed chain-stitch sewing by means of a single thread, thehooked needle of the machine being shown at N, the presser at P, and the looper at L. The driving-shaft S of the machine, duly journaled in bearings in the base a. of a gooseneck, 0, is tubular at and near its front end, to receive and support a spindle, p, to whose front end the looper L is fixed. This spindle can turn freely laterally in the bore of the shaft, there being to the shaft a setscrew, q,.whieh is screwed into such shaft laterally against the spindle, and also into a groove, 1', extending around such spindle near its inner end. The set-screw serves not only to retain the spindle in connection with but to clamp it to the shaft. The spindle carries the eccentric s for operating the feeder. This eccentric works in a cy-. lindrical hole in the tailpiece t of the feeder, such tail-piece being connected to the front end of the base a by a screw, it, that goes through aslot, o, in the said tail-piece and screws into the said base. The tail-piece, by the revolution of the eccentric, has imparted to it not only a reciprocating motion upward and downward, but one laterally forward and backward, to cause the feeder to properly operate to feed the hat and sweat-band along intermittentl y upon the arched bedplate B, such bed-plate being arranged on the base 11, in manner as shown, and fastened to one side thereof. By having the looper connected to a spindle grooved as described, and going within the driving-shaft, and having to the latteraset-screw to hold the spindle in place, the looper can be turned and adjusted as 00- casion may require, to adapt it to properly operate with the needle without coming in contact therewith to injure it while the two may be in action. After the sweat-band may have been stitched to the hat, and the latter may have been removed from the sewing-machine, the sweat-band or lining is to be turned or folded back within the hat-body, so as to extend into and around it and come between it and the head of a person when wearing the hat.

The mechanism for operating the needle and the presser, being such as are usually used in sewing-machines of the class to which that shown in the drawings belongs, need not be described.

The front guide, G, fixed upon the arched bed-plate, is extended upward therefrom, and provided with a guide-lip, w, to project from the inner edge of the guide over the binding of the sweat-band and against the part thereof that encompasses the rattan strip. This guide may be fastened to the plate K, which in such case may be extended forward to the front end of the arched bed-plate. The guide I is made as a lever, and provided with the cammed lever m, for the purpose of enabling such guide at its front end to be readily raised relatively to the arched bedplate, such being for applying the sweatband thereto and to its two guides.

The above-described mechanism is not for sewing to the body of a hat at one and the same time, and by one line of stitching going through them, a sweatlining and a hat-band,

Instead of a single lining-guide used in the machine described in the United States Pat ent No. 299,780, dated June 3, 1884, granted to John F. Hamilton, I am obliged to have two lining-guides, as described, applied to the arched bed-plate, one of such guides being in advance of the other. Therefore I do not claim the combination of hat-band guide or guides and a single lining-guide with a sewing-machine provided with hat body and rim rests, as represented in the said patent of the said Hamilton.

I claim- 1. The combination of a sewingmachine and an arched bed-plate, B, applied thereto as described, with the stationary guide G, having the lip w projecting from the inner edge of the guide, and fulcrumed guide-lever I,pr0- vided with the cainmed lever m, and applied to such bed-plate, all being arranged substantially and for the purpose as set forth.

2. The combination of a sewing -machine and an arched bed-plate, B, applied thereto, with the stationary guide G, having the lip 10 projecting from the inner edge of the guide, and the plate K, fixed to the said bed-plate, and with the guide-lever I, fulcrum ed to such plate, and provided with the cammed lever m, all being substantially and to operate as and for the purpose set forth.

3. The combination of a sewing-machine, the arched bed-plate B, applied thereto as described,the stationary guide G, having the lip wprojecting from the inner edge of the guide, the plate K, fixed to the bed-plate B,the guidelever I, fulcrumed to plate K, the cammed lever m, fulcrumed to lever I, the guide G and the guide-lever I being ata fixed distance apart, whereby the various portions of the device bear upon and hold the parts to be sewed, as set forth.

JESSE ALBERT LOOKE.

Witnesses:

R. H. EDDY, E. B. PRATT. 

